Corfu and Paxos: walking in the Ionian Islands

By Solène Roux

Published on February 12, 2019 8 min read

Turquoise cove surrounded by mountains - Corfu - Greece

Corfu and Paxos are in the Ionian Islands, west of mainland Greece. Their olive groves and harbours create scenery quite different from the Cyclades. On Corfu, you can follow a walking crossing or choose day hikes. Paxos is more compact, with small ports and paths lined by stone walls. Boats connect the 2 islands. Coastal terrain and transfers matter as much as distance when planning your walks. Grand Angle organizes Ionian Islands holidays, either guided or self-guided. Choose your area according to the terrain and the time available between crossings.

CorfuA sizeable island: plan transfers between walking areas
PaxosHarbours and olive groves to explore on foot, after a sea crossing
For walkingSpring and autumn, adapting each day to the weather
Plan ahead forHeat, stony paths and transport between your start and finish

3 starting points for exploring Corfu and Paxos on foot

  1. Kerkyra
  2. The Corfu Trail
  3. Paxos

To explore these landscapes with a walking guide, our guided holiday combines walks and connections between the 2 islands.

Choosing Corfu or Paxos for walking

Corfu suits a holiday built around varied walking stages, with several walking areas and a visit to Kerkyra. The island requires transfers between accommodation and trailheads. A walking crossing can become the main thread of your holiday.

Paxos suits exploring a more compact area, between harbours and olive groves. Allow for the boat crossing and prepare your walks. A small island does not necessarily have easy paths. To combine the 2, leave enough time on each island for full walking days between journeys.

Kerkyra: a cultural stop during your holiday

Corfu Town is also known by its Greek name, Kerkyra. In the old center, lanes narrow between façades, laundry hangs between windows and bell towers serve as landmarks. The fortresses recall the island’s strategic position at the entrance to the Adriatic. Venetian influence is visible in the architecture of this UNESCO-listed old town.

The Liston offers a pause beneath its arcades. Allow time to leave this promenade and explore the small squares. Kerkyra fits well at the beginning or end of your holiday, depending on arrival and boat times. It gives context to the villages you later meet along the paths.

For a private connection from the airport to your accommodation, Vanakee offers transfers booked in advance. Provide the pick-up point, destination and number of travelers. Also check whether your holiday already includes this transfer.

The Corfu Trail: choose stages and plan your crossing

The Corfu Trail runs from south to north across Corfu. A crossing takes several days and requires planned overnight stops and suitable luggage arrangements. Walking one section already reveals the island’s distinctive scenery: olive groves, inland villages and coastal views.

On the west coast, the Liapades and Palaiokastritsa areas combine paths on higher ground with descents to the bays. Around Agios Simeon, a chapel becomes a walking destination. Climbs can be short and steep. A glimpse of the sea from a path does not necessarily mean a level coastal walk.

For example, the official Corfu Trail description gives 11 km, 300 m of ascent and around 4 hours' walking for the Asprokavos circuit in the south. These figures apply to that circuit. They do not describe every stage’s difficulty. To compare 2 days, consider distance, ascent and terrain together. Add stops and any transfer to the walking time.

Our self-guided Corfu crossing (in French) is for travelers who want to focus their holiday on this walking progression. Read the itinerary stages and compare them with your usual walking experience.

Olive groves, coves and northern heights

Corfu’s olive trees can be surprisingly large. Their shade accompanies some walks before the path opens towards the Ionian Sea. Rovinia, near Liapades, and the bays around Palaiokastritsa may tempt you to stop. Keep both access to a cove and the return to the village within your day’s plan.

Further north, the Pantokrator massif changes the scenery. Higher ground offers views towards the coast and mainland mountains. Choose a documented walk here, with a precise starting point. A viewpoint reached by road and an ascent from a village require very different efforts.

A place to stay in Liapades

Between Liapades village and Gefyra Bay, Villa Papoulas offers studios with kitchenettes and apartments. The garden and swimming pool leave room for time at the property between outings. Studios accommodate 2 or 3 guests. Apartments have 2 bedrooms.

This address suits travelers who want to keep the same accommodation while exploring this part of Corfu. Check opening dates and pool access for your stay. If you are following an itinerant crossing, compare its location with your planned stages and the transfers included in your holiday.

Paxos: walking between harbours and dry-stone walls

Paxos is reached by boat. Olive groves remain a feature, but distances between the main villages give the holiday a different rhythm. Gaios is a lively harbour with colorful façades. Lakka occupies a sheltered bay in the north, while Loggos offers another waterfront stop.

Between these ports, paths lined by stone walls reveal the island’s interior. Bring a map or route notes. Even a small island can have many junctions. Some sections include stones and steps. Proximity to the sea does not remove the need for walking shoes.

The Tripitos arch illustrates Paxos’s rocky coast. When approaching a cliff, stay on the path and keep away from the edge. Seeing this landscape does not justify stepping onto the arch for a photograph.

To combine the 2 islands, our self-guided Corfu and Paxos holiday (in French) details the planned walks and connections. A guided departure also brings a guide’s perspective on the landscapes and local history.

Preparing your Corfu and Paxos holiday

Choose the season and adapt each day

Spring and autumn lend themselves to walking, with conditions varying according to your dates. In summer, heat increases the effort, even beneath olive trees. Set out early when the weather calls for it. Carry enough water for the whole walk and bring sun protection. Villages and places to replenish supplies are not evenly spaced along every route.

Stones can be slippery after rain. Waymarking and path conditions also change, so use recent information. Choose each day’s walk according to current conditions. Keep an option to shorten it where one is described in your route notes.

Check sea connections

Departures to Paxos depend on the operator, season and Corfu port used. Check the exact port, the time needed to reach it and luggage arrangements. A crossing duration on its own is not enough to plan a connection with a flight.

Paxos and Antipaxos are 2 separate islands. An excursion to Antipaxos depends on available connections and sea conditions. It is not automatically included in a stay on Paxos. Read your chosen itinerary before booking an extra service.

To compare this combination with other destinations, our selection of Greek islands for a nature holiday describes other ways to explore the archipelago. Our Ionian Islands holidays keep your travels within this region of Greece.

Not decided yet? Let us keep in touch.

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Practical questions about Corfu and Paxos

Should I choose a Corfu crossing or a holiday on 2 islands?

The crossing suits a holiday focused on progressing on foot. Combining Corfu and Paxos adds a boat journey and the discovery of several ports. Compare the walking days in each itinerary, then decide how much time you want to spend travelling.

Can I walk without a guide?

Yes, with a prepared route, navigation information and experience suited to the walks' difficulty. A self-guided holiday organizes the logistics described in the itinerary. On a guided trip, the guide leads the days and shares knowledge of the region.

Can I swim during a walk?

Some routes pass near beaches. Allow time for the detour and climb back up, then consider sea conditions and local rules. A pause beside the water is still possible when swimming is unsuitable.

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Article written by

Solène Roux

Editorial lead

Passionate about travel and a keen advocate of slow travel, I am fortunate to turn my love of adventure into engaging stories. As editorial lead at Grand Angle Tours, an agency specialising in trekking and cycling… Read more

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