Which direction to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc: a guide to making the right choice

This is a question that sparks debate among all future hikers of the Tour du Mont Blanc: should you go clockwise or counterclockwise? If you check guides, forums, and travel accounts, a clear trend emerges. Yet the other direction also has its merits. As an adventure travel organizer on these trails since 1983, we have seen hikers enjoy both directions. The choice depends less on a “right answer” than on your profile and what you are seeking. This guide aims to shed light by analyzing, with our field expertise, the advantages and implications of each option.

• Counterclockwise: the classic route and its advantages
• Clockwise: the alternative option for more solitude
• Verdict: which direction to choose for your TMB?
• Grand Angle expertise to guide you

Counterclockwise: the classic route and its advantages

The counterclockwise direction (or "trigonometric") is the most popular and well-documented. It is the “official” direction of the UTMB race and the one followed by the vast majority of hikers. Starting from Les Houches, the route leads to Les Contamines, then Italy via the Col de la Seigne, Switzerland via the Grand Col Ferret, before returning to France through the Col de Balme.

A more gradual difficulty

The main argument in favor of this direction is managing effort. The early ascents, on the French side, are generally considered longer but with gentler slopes. This allows for better acclimatization and a gradual warm-up before tackling the sometimes steeper Italian and Swiss sections. For more details, see our guide on the difficulty of the Tour du Mont Blanc.

A staged "wow" effect

Hiking the TMB in this direction is a bit like following a story with a narrative designed for the hiker. The emotional high point is often the passage over the Col de la Seigne during the third stage. After two days in beautiful but relatively "gentle" alpine landscapes, the col suddenly reveals the full austerity and majesty of the Mont Blanc massif’s southern face. It is a visual shock, a panorama of sheer cliffs and twisted glaciers that leaves a lasting impression.

Easier logistics

This is the best-marked direction and the one described in most guidebooks. Refuges are also accustomed to this flow of hikers. With fewer people on narrow trails, progress can be smoother. This is the direction we have designed our itineraries for, from the 10-day guided TMB to the 12-day self-guided version.

Clockwise: the alternative option for more solitude

Less frequented, the clockwise direction starts from Les Houches towards Brévent and Chamonix, then passes through Switzerland, Italy, and ends in the Contamines valley.

The advantage of tranquility

This is its number one benefit. By hiking "against the flow," you encounter most hikers but do not follow them. On the trails, the sense of solitude is much stronger. At breaks and in refuges, the atmosphere can be quieter since you are not in the "main crowd."

Different viewpoints

The landscapes remain the same, but the perspectives change. You will see panoramas while ascending where others descend. For example, you will face the climb towards the

with a view of the Mer de Glace gradually unfolding, a very different experience. Likewise, the descent of the Col de la Seigne provides an extended view over the Italian Val Veny.

Inverted effort management

Difficulty is approached differently. You start with high-elevation stages (the climb to Brévent on the first day) and finish with gentler slopes in Val Montjoie. This can be an advantage for tired bodies at the end of the trek.

Verdict: which direction to choose for your TMB?

There is no wrong choice, only a choice more or less suited to your profile.

• We recommend counterclockwise (classic) for a first TMB experience. It offers logical progression, a storytelling of landscapes, and simplified logistics. It is the serene choice for discovering this iconic trek.
• Clockwise is better suited to experienced hikers who have already done the TMB or are primarily seeking solitude and a new perspective on a route they may already know. This choice requires more autonomy in map reading and route-following.

Grand Angle expertise to guide you

At Grand Angle, almost all our trips, whether guided group or self-guided, are designed counterclockwise. We believe this is the best way to reveal the magic of the route, following its natural narrative. Our topo-guides, precise and detailed, are designed for this progression, ensuring a smooth, stress-free experience. Whether you have 7, 9, or 11 days, seeking a sporting challenge or an easier version, we have a program for you.

Still unsure? Contact our advisors. Their detailed knowledge of the terrain and the TMB stages is your best asset to plan a trip that perfectly suits you.

And why not do it in both directions?

Continue exploring the TMB stage by stage

• TMB - Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines-Montjoie
• TMB - Stage 2: Les Contamines-Montjoie to Les Chapieux
• TMB - Stage 3: Les Chapieux to Elisabetta Refuge
• TMB - Stage 4: Elisabetta Refuge to Courmayeur
• TMB - Stage 5: Courmayeur to La Fouly
• TMB - Stage 6: La Fouly to Champex
• TMB - Stage 7: Champex to Col de la Forclaz
• TMB - Stage 8: Col de la Forclaz to Argentière
• TMB - Stage 9: Argentière to Chamonix
• TMB - Stage 10: Chamonix to Les Houches

See all TMB stages and the TMB variants.