The Vélodyssée from La Rochelle to Royan, the natural Atlantic coastline

In this travelogue, let yourself be transported by the charms of the Atlantic coast on the Vélodyssée from La Rochelle to Royan. Saddle up!

Arriving in La Rochelle 

La Rochelle is a city like no other. Just stroll for a few minutes around the Old Port and you'll lose track of time. The two medieval towers, valiant guardians of another era, form a harmonious whole, and it's easy to imagine the arrival of a majestic galleon. 

We wanted to find out a little more about the history of the town, the starting point for major expeditions and the discovery of the French islands. Driven by curiosity, we pushed open the doors of the New World Museum. 

On the way, the pavement of the rue de l'escale caught our attention. Round pebbles cover the alleyway, which is lined with charming townhouses dating from the 18th century, the golden age of the rich merchants of La Rochelle. We later realised that these pebbles came from Scandinavia,England or the banks of the Saint Lawrence in Canada and were used as ballast for ships carrying commercial goods that were too light (beaver pelts, otters or mink) or sailing empty to come and buy wine or salt. 

This evening, we'll be enjoying the gentle sunset in a restaurant featuring spices, a nod to the trading posts across the Atlantic.

Day 1: Île de Ré 

The first day of this trip along theVélodyssée from La Rochelle to Royan begins with a visit to the famous Île de Ré. The sea breeze wakes us up, and the programme is exciting: a long bike ride on the Ile de Ré, 40 m of ascent, culminating in the summit of the Ile de Ré bridge. 

We got on our bikes and pedalled along to the cycle path. We skirted the beaches and then the port of La Palisse with its industrial silhouette. We took a few minutes to watch the almost graceful sweep of merchant ships and liners. The strong westerly wind gave us a strange experience as we crossed the bridge, the sand from the island's beaches whipping our faces and making our eyes squint. As soon as we arrive on the island, we can feel the holiday feeling - it's exhilarating! 

We arrived in the aptly named village of Rivedoux. The cycle path is perfect: on our left is the beach and on our right the little white houses typical of the island. Hollyhocks are king on the island, decorating the facades in a monochrome of pinks and purples. 

We pass through a pine forest to reach the village of La Flotte, with its heady scent of seaside holidays. 

La Flotte has a charm all of its own. We stopped there for an ice cream, which we enjoyed on the beach.

Delighted to be back on our bikes, we were delighted to be back on the cycle route. It's idyllic, as we cycle inland and along the ocean as far as Saint Martin en Ré. 

Saint Martin has all the chic and phlegm of a small holiday town. Who can imagine that this pretty little town was once a stronghold of resistance against the assaults of the English fleet under Louis XIV? If we take a step up and look at the architecture, it's easy to see that Saint Martin is a fortified citadel built by Vauban. 

We continue our journey as close as possible to the ocean. Here, the oyster farmers have taken over the cycle path and are offering tastings of oysters and mussel éclades. A real treat, which we savoured on a driftwood bar facing the ocean. Happiness, in all its simplicity. 

Cycling the Ile de Ré is (too) easy, the cycle paths are varied, each stretch has its own charm and soon the Baleines lighthouse is in sight. We climbed up there, the panorama was breathtaking, and our minds drifted off to the North American coastline on the horizon...

On the way back to La Rochelle, we enjoyed a moment of pure relaxation on the beach. The sea bath was invigorating, perfect for the last few kilometres of this idyllic day. We left the beach and the kitsurfs to head for the mainland. The wind at our backs propels us easily to the top of the bridge, where La Rochelle awaits us for a beautiful evening before continuing on this section of the Vélodyssée from La Rochelle to Royan. This evening, we'll enjoy a seafood platter in one of the old port's restaurants.
 

Day 2: La Rochelle - Rochefort 

The weather has changed overnight, the warmth and blue skies giving way to threatening clouds. To the south of the town, we discover another of La Rochelle's harbours, the Port des Minimes, which welcomes yachtsmen to its 70 hectares. We were lulled to sleep by the characteristic clinking of the ropes on the masts of the sailing ships. The cycle path is as close as we can get to the ocean. The dramatic-looking clouds offer us a full range of colours, from white to black. You feel the power of the elements, you breathe, you are charged with negative ions. It's a beautiful sight. 

We arrive at Chatelaillons Plage. The weather is clearing, the sun is finally shining and we discover a wide beach of golden sand. We admired the Belle Époque mansions that belonged to the middle classes of La Rochelle from the 19th century onwards. We take a coffee break at the Casino, and are tempted to slip a few coins into the slot machine. Fortune will come another time. 

We continue along the tracks towards Fouras and admire the work of the mussel farmers. Low tide reveals the seabed dotted with bouchot stakes. The cycle path is dotted with carrelets, the little wooden huts with their hanging nets used for traditional fishing.

In Fouras, we can admire a new military fortress designed by Vauban. No fewer than fourteen defensive fortifications were built under the reign of Louis XIV between La Rochelle and theIle d'Oléron. This gives us an idea of the strategic position of this part of France in the 17th century. 

We leave the coast behind us to follow the banks of the Charente , which meanders gently to Rochefort. 

Rochefort is a nice surprise, starting with its emblematic building, la Corderie Royale. This factory was part of the royal arsenal commissioned by the Sun King, who decided to renew the fleet of warships, which was almost non-existent and ageing, to counter the repeated attacks by the English Navy on the Atlantic coast. 

Rochefort was chosen for its strategic location, set back inland on the banks of the Charentes River and giving direct access to the ocean. The town became a large-scale shipyard, and for 350 years all the trades worked together to design, build and arm French ships. From rope makers to doctors specialising in exotic diseases, Rochefort was much more than a shipyard. There's plenty to see, learn and understand. We're totally captivated!

Day 3: Rochefort - Oléron 

This 3rd stage of the Vélodyssée from La Rochelle to Royan is accompanied from the outset by mild sunshine. We were riding alongside the Charente when an imposing metal structure rose up in front of us: the ferry. We were thrilled at the idea of using it. 

Dating back to 1898, this bridge is an ingenious solution for crossing the Charente without hindering maritime traffic. The gondola on which we were sitting was suspended and crossed the river gracefully.

We're cruising along peacefully, with no difficulties on the horizon andÎle Madame catching our eye. We decided to do an extra loop, as the gradient hadn't worn us out since the start of our trip. The tide has receded, revealing the one and only access road to the island. An air of adventure washed over our little getaway, but we had to get back in time before the tide came back in! 

We almost stayed on the island for life, so much did we enjoy the gentle way of life. But now our hotel is waiting for us, on another island: Oléron. After a few wonderful kilometres in the mild late afternoon between the town of Brouage and Marennes , we crossed the Oléron bridge. We're delighted to be spending the night on this island.
 

Day 4: Oléron

At this stage of our journey,Oleron is undoubtedly one of our favourites. The island is rustic, and nature is wild and cheerful. We're not bird-watchers, yet we enjoyed observing an impressive number of specimens throughout the day. 

Daniel and Christine welcomed us to their oyster farm for an oyster tasting. We asked them all the questions that had remained unanswered since the start of our stay, and above all we realised that the work of an oyster farmer is as difficult as it is fascinating. 

We could have stayed here for hours, but we had to get back on our bikes. The network of cycle paths has been a marvel in this region since we left La Rochelle, and we've hardly shared the road with motorists, or very few.

Shortly after Boyardville, there's a small sign pointing to the beach, and we can't resist a dip - that's what cycling holidays are all about, the freedom to stop wherever you like and enjoy yourself. With the famous Fort Boyard in our sights, the swim was delicious. We set off again through the pine forest, the music from the TV game show playing in our heads, impossible to get rid of... We arrived at the western tip of the island, where the Chassiron lighthouse stood majestically, as if dressed in a sailor suit - it was love at first sight!

A little ice cream and we're off again through the island's bucolic natural landscapes.
We're enjoying our second night as islanders, and we're really starting to get the hang of it.
 

Day 5: Oléron - Ronce les Bains 

Life is easy on the island, and we get off to a gentle start through the maze of oyster beds and oyster-farmers' huts, all brightly coloured and varied. There is joy in this corner of the island. We're in no hurry to leave, so we're taking our time. Today's idea: savour and enjoy the beautiful beaches of southern Oléron before bidding farewell. 

We cross the bridge again, with one last little look at Château d'Oléron and its fortifications (Vauban, you suspected it, didn't you). 

Back to the mainland to find the official route for this part of the Vélodyssée from La Rochelle to Royan. It didn't take us long to forget that we were feeling a bit down in the dumps, because Ronce les Bains is a little gem! The beach, the scent of pine trees, the Belle Epoque mansions. This little seaside resort is an intoxicating delight.

Day 6: Ronce les Bain - Royan 

Every stage so far has been wonderful, but it has to be said that this last day brings our journey to a close in style. 

A bright summer sun shines down on us at dawn, and it's hot, but the sea breeze brings just the right amount of softness. We followed the cycle path, through the maritime pines and holm oaks, along the wide sandy beaches. At low tide, it's almost as if we're on the edge of a desert. We're savouring the last few kilometres of this trip, taking breaks for coffee, ice cream and a swim. Our swimming costumes dry on the luggage rack, and we're as happy as kids. 

To spice up the stage, there's nothing like a little cardio challenge. We decided to climb the 300 steps of the metal staircase of the Coubre lighthouse. With its slender silhouette and red and white checkered paintwork, I couldn't help but think of Tintin's rocket. The interior wall, covered in blue opaline, is a thing of beauty. And what about the view from the top? A sublime view of the ‘wild coast’, the Coubre forest and theGironde Estuary to the south...

We set off for the last few kilometres on our steel bikes, heading south. The cycle path is great fun, with a succession of amusing little bumps. We discover a succession of conches, each more charming than the last, all the way to Royan. The coastline never ceases to amaze us, from surf schools to the remains of bunkers. 

We arrive at the northern tip of theGironde Estuary. A ferry is ready to leave for the tip of the Médoc. Royan, our destination. We look at Royan Cathedral with bewilderment, an imposing concrete vessel, like a sad symbol of the last assaults of the Second World War. 

The town surprises us with its architectural eclecticism; it's a joyous bazaar. Clearly, there's something for everyone. Although mutilated by history, Royan has been reborn thanks to innovative architects. We've been won over. 

Our adventure along the Vélodyssée from La Rochelle comes to an end here, on Royan's long beach, but we've already spotted a green sign flanked by a small bicycle pointing to the Basque country, as an invitation to continue our adventure on this beautiful Atlantic coast for a future visit!

Crédit texte et photos © Charlotte Laventureux